In formal yet less strict settings, where a specific “Dress Code” is not required, such as professional environments, the Oxford shoe remains a perfect choice. It demonstrates a guaranteed and superior elegance.
While staying within the classic realm of the timeless Oxford, it is also possible to opt for a version with Brogue detailing, perhaps in dark brown suede, which has increasingly gained popularity in recent collections and offerings.
The Oxford is recommended for ordinary feet and those without particularly pronounced insteps; otherwise, the lacing tends to open into a “V” shape.
A specific chapter must be dedicated to “Derby” shoes.
This type of shoe, with distant origins, features an open lacing system. Technically, the stitching of the “quarters,” where the eyelets for the laces are located, is done on top of the “vamps,” so the lacing is considered “open” (unlike the “closed” lacing of the Oxford shoes mentioned previously). This open lacing is the only characteristic that distinguishes a Derby shoe.
Over time, Derby shoes have expanded their range of use from informal to more formal settings with easier wearability. The style, colors, and various leathers used have contributed to this, along with a progressive blending of the lines between formal and informal.
Today, Derby shoes can be worn confidently with a full suit, and even more so with non-solid-colored suits and easily with separates.
Brogues are a variant of Oxford and Derby shoes, distinguishable by the decorative perforations on the shoe’s upper. Originally designed to be worn in the countryside, they are now considered extremely elegant shoes due to their intricate decorations.
The most common type is the Full Brogue or Wingtips (USA): the toe is decorated with a “W” shape that extends laterally, like the wings of a swallow, to the mid-shoe, and is highlighted by dense perforations and serrations. The toe is also adorned with perforated designs. When they are two-toned, they are called “Spectators.”
For your first pair of Brogues, we recommend a semi or quarter Brogue in dark brown. If you lean towards tailoring, choose a “full-brogue” (wingtip) in a light brown/cognac shade. Preferably in pebbled leather. Keep in mind that a pair like this will definitely turn heads, so if you’re not comfortable with the attention, stick to a darker brown. This will introduce you to the wonderful world of Brogue shoes and provide endless pairing options with jeans, chinos, wool trousers, or even corduroy.
Another type of footwear that can be considered in the realm of “formal business” is the single or double-buckle shoes. They certainly offer a look that is more modern and contemporary while still paying close attention to elegance.